extension, U joint type (Must have)
- 24mm Socket
- 13mm Socket
- 10mm Socket
- 13mm Wrench
- 12mm Wrench
- 11mm Wrench
- 10mm Wrench
- 8mm Wrench
- 7mm Wrench
- 6mm Allen
with ball end works best
slot screw driver
- Razor blade
drill bit (size not very important, for pilot holes)
drill bit (9 to 10mm, a little bigger is even fine)
- We suggest
a Motive Brake Bleeder
- Small Felt
tip marker or pen
magnetic tool comes in handy
1. Remove the
airbox by loosening the clamp around the J tube. Loosen the clamp for
the other hose attached to the airbox. Remove the two screws in the
front of the airbox. Then remove the two screws in the rear of the
airbox. Remove the plug going to the AFM. Then you will be able to lift
the whole airbox up and out of the car.
2. Loosen the
clamp on the hose that’s attached to the brake booster and
remove the hose. Also, pull off the vacuum hose.
3. Remove the
wires that are attached to the reservoir cap.
brake fluid from the brakes and clutch. There are several ways to do
this. This can be done by sucking the fluid out of the brake calipers
from the bleeder screws, and the bleeder screw on the clutch slave
cylinder. Or, you can drain the fluid from the reservoir by removing
the blue hose that connects the reservoir to the clutch master
cylinder. This is the messy way since the fluid will still be inside
the brake and clutch master cylinder. When you remove the lines from
the master cylinders fluid will come out. Be ready to catch the fluid
and clean up any messes. Letting the brake fluid sit on any painted
part of the car will strip the paint away.
fluid is drained, you can remove the hose from the brake reservoir.
4. Remove the
brake lines that connect to the master cylinder.
5. Remove the
two nuts that hold the brake master cylinder onto the brake booster and
pull off the master cylinder.
6. Loosen the
hose clamp and remove the vacuum hose. This hose crosses over the brake
booster and will get in the way. Remove it and move it aside.
7. Remove the
bolt that holds the dip stick on, and remove the dipstick.
8. Remove the
steering wheel. Pull the horn pad off the steering wheel. Just grab the
sides and pull towards you.
9. In the
middle of the steering wheel is a large nut, remove this nut with a
24mm socket and long extension. Before pulling the steering wheel off,
make a mark with a marker on the shaft and the wheel. This way
it’s much easier to align when you reinstall it.
under the dash to remove the brake booster from the brake pedal.
It’s attached to the brake pedal with a clip. Depending on
the year of your car this clip could be a different shape.
the 3 nuts that hold on the brake booster. Be careful and
don’t drop the nuts or washers, they can fall behind the
carpet and are hard to get out. If you do loose them, they are 8mm by
12. Once you
remove the three nuts for the brake booster, the brake booster can be
removed from the car. Gently bend the brake line just enough to get the
booster out. Then pull the booster out.
the blue hose from the clutch master cylinder if you wish. Remove the
one clutch line from the master cylinder. Then remove the 2 nuts that
hold on the master cylinder. Note that the washers will NOT be used in
reassembly. The master cylinder will now pull off from the car.
14. If you
have an early car, 85.5 and earlier, you will need to remove the nut
for the hose clamp on the AC lines. These AC lines will need to be
pulled away from the firewall a little to allow the brace to be
installed. Removing this clamp will allow the AC lines to move enough
to get the brace to fit.
15. The early
cars also have a welded on screw that needs to be removed from the
firewall. The screw can either be cut off, or it can be removed with
pliers by bending it back and forth until it comes off. It comes off
fairly clean by bending it back and forth.
16. Take a
razor blade and remove some of the rubber from the grommet, like in the
picture. If you don’t there is a change that the brace will
not sit flat against the firewall.
17. Now fit
the brace onto the firewall. It’s a tight fit, and will only
go on one way. Make sure the plate sits under the AC line and all the
wires and hoses at the top.
18. With the
firewall plate held in place, put either two or three bolts in the
holes for the brake booster. Use the nuts from the brake booster on the
back of the bolts. Push the plate up and then tighten the bolts.
19. Now that
you have the plate in place, you can mark out where the holes are going
to be drilled. Use a small felt tip marker or a pen and mark a dot or
circle inside all the holes with threads. Don’t forget about
the two top holes too. As you can see in the picture I used a pen to
make little circles where the holes need to be drilled in the firewall.
20. I would
suggest drilling the top two holes first. Use a center punch in the
middle of the holes and use the large drill bit to drill the holes. Be
careful when drilling these holes, since the brake lines run directly
behind where you are drilling. Once the drill bit breaks through the
metal you will need to stop drilling to avoid hitting the brake lines.
* Tip: To
protect the wires that run along the top of the firewall, wrap your
drill bit with some electrical tape like in the picture. *
to make a punch mark where the other holes are going to be drilled.
Then either drill a pilot hole or just drill the hole. The two holes
under the clutch master cylinder area are the hardest to drill because
the drill will have to be at an angle. Start by using a center punch,
but not where the hole needs to go, make the center punch about 3mm to
the left of the center of the hole. Then drill a pilot hole, and then
the large hole. Take your time and go slow with these holes. The reason
for starting the hole 3mm to the left is because when you drill the
hole with the large drill bit it will want to move to the right.
Because you are drilling at an angle the hole will move to the correct
spot when finished.
22. Now you
should have all the holes drilled. It’s time to test fit the
plate. Put the plate against the firewall to see if all the holes line
up. If you can visually see that all the holes line up, good, if not
you will need to adjust the hole with either a rotary rasp or something
23. Now that
it looks like all the holes are in the right place you can try screwing
the plate onto the firewall. Just because it visually looks like all
the holes are in the right place doesn’t mean that actually
are. This is when you will find out if all the holes are actually in
the right place. The picture below shows where each bolt goes and how
many washers to use. Since it’s easy to loose the washers to
drill the holes too big in the firewall, we’ve supplied some
extra, small and large washers.
picture below will show you the correct order to tightening the bolts.
If you don’t go in this order the clutch master cylinder
might not fit right. With the plate in place against the firewall, put
the aluminum shim on the clutch master cylinder bolts. The shim should
be installed with the thick part at the bottom and the thin part at the
top. Then install the master cylinder and put the nuts on, without the
washers. For now, install all the nuts and bolts finger tight. Once the
master cylinder nuts are on finger tight then install the rest of the
bolts in the order below.
* Please note
that you should NOT use a gasket for the clutch master cylinder. It is
NOT needed and it’s added thickness will not allow the nuts
to fully go on. The aluminum shim will act like a seal, just like an
aluminum crush washer does for the oil drain bolt.
Some of these
bolts are harder to get in because of where they are located. Bolt #5
is hard to reach, someone with small hands are a plus, also the use of
a telescopic magnetic tool really comes in handy to hold the bolt while
you place it and screw it in. This is also where you will need the
U-joint swivel attachment on your socket. #9 can also be a little
tricky. You should be able to get to it with one finger from the top
and one finger from the bottom. You can slide a finger in from the
bottom by going around the spring for the gas pedal.
If you were
not able to fit all the bolts in, then the holes must not be in the
right spot. Slot or grind the holes until you are able to fit all the
25. Now that
you know all the bolts will fit you can seal the plate to the firewall
if you desire. I would suggest using something like RTV silicone or
something like it. You can either remove the firewall brace from the
car and apply the sealant to the firewall, or, you could leave the
brace on the car and seal around the edge of the brace.
* Tip: to
tighten the last bolt, #9, use a wrench by sticking it through the
brake booster hole from the engine compartment, this seemed to be the
26. Once you
seal the brace, if you wanted to, you can install all the bolts in for
the final time. I elected not to use loctite on the bolts but this
would be the time if you desired. You are also going to want to make
sure that you are installing the correct size bolts with the correct
number of washers in each hole. Please refer to the picture above in
step # 23
Once you are
finished installing all the bolts for the last time, congratulate
look like the picture below. Notice bolts #6, and #9 are flush, or very
close to it, with the plate. This means you used the correct bolts and
27. Now you
can reinstall everything back onto the car. Basically it’s
the reverse of the way you removed everything with a few minor
the hose back onto the clutch master cylinder and the hydraulic line
onto the end of the master cylinder.
installing the brake booster you will need to loosen the nut on the
rod. This can be on very tight and the best way to loosen it is with
one wrench on the nut and the other wrench on the arm like in the first
picture. Keep the nut loose so that you can adjust this arm after
installing the brake booster.
the brake booster back onto the car and tighten the three nuts on the
inside. Before installing the brake booster you might want to apply
some sealant around the edge of the booster where it contacts the
the vacuum lines back onto the brake booster and the other vacuum line
that you removed.
the dip stick.
the brake master cylinder onto the brake booster.
all the brake lines back into the brake master cylinder and the hose
that goes to the reservoir.
the airbox assembly.
36. Now go
back inside the car to adjust the brake and clutch. Loosen the nut on
the clutch adjusting arm and adjust the arm out until it sits snug
against the clutch master cylinder. Once it’s snug, then
tighten up the nut to hold it in place.
37. The brake
arm nut should already be loose but if you forgot to loosen it you will
need to now. Then adjust the arm so that it reaches the brake pedal.
Once it reaches the brake pedal you can tighten the jam nut and
reinstall the pin and clip on the brake pedal.
38. Now check
to see if the brake lights are working. If the brake lights stay on all
the time, then you will need to adjust the brake light switch on the
the steering wheel and then the horn pad.
40. After the
brake and clutch pedals are attached you can start to bleed the clutch
and brakes. Start by bleeding the clutch, then the brakes. If you have
a Motive brake bleeder the job is not hard at all.
procedure at Clark's Garage for bleeding the brakes.